Producers of one of the very finest cheddars, the Keens have been making cheese at Moorhayes Farm near Wincanton in Somerset since 1899. George Keen says: "Cheese has been made by the Keens at Moorhayes Farm since our Great Aunt Jane pressed her first truckle in 1899. Our mother Dorothy learnt cheesemaking at the Somerset Farm Institute in Cannington. Nowadays, me and my brother Stephen, assisted by our sons Nick and James, continue to make un-pasteurised Cheddar – we’re one of only a few farms left who do."
Matured in cloth for over 12 months, the cheese uses only milk from their own dairy herd, with the untreated milk being used within a day of milking. Only about 130 cheeses are made per week.
Keens, Montgomery's and Westcombe created one of the first UK Slow Food Presidia – for 'Artisan Somerset Cheddar'. Part of the Slow Food movement, its aim is to raise awareness of the special quality of traditional cheddar made using local raw milk and crafted by hand.
The special place held by this cheese is indicated by the numerous awards it has won, the latest being Champion Cheddar at the 2006 Royal Bath and West Show, and best cheddar at the World Cheese Awards in both 2005 and 2006.
Unpasteurised
Note: from time to time you may find a bit of blue in these ultra-traditional cheddars. This is quite normal, and in fact the cheese may even be tastier because of it. The makers believe that full development of flavour means creating a cheese that can breathe as it matures - this means that a few of the bacteria which create blue cheese sometimes get in. A greater authority than I, Sarah Freeman, had this to say in The Real Cheese Companion: "at this stage [i.e when very mature] may have developed a few knots of blue, probably near the rind, which is a recommendation rather than otherwise".
Keen's Cheddar & Smoked Paprika Biscuits
Pre-heat oven to 160c/325f/G3
Cooking time - 30 minutes
Makes about 10
Need well greased baking tray and 7cm/2½” cutter
175g plain flour
175g butter
75g Keen’s cheddar, grated
50g unblanched almonds – finely chopped
1 large egg yolk
½ tsp smoked paprika* (this weeks obscure ingredient – Ed.)
Sift flour and paprika into a large bowl and lightly rub the butter in. Add the grated cheese and egg yolk (saving a little to brush the pre-cooked biscuits with). Stir in the chopped almonds and gently knead the mixture to a smooth (but sticky) dough. Wrap in cling-film and chill for at least ½ hour in the fridge.
Roll out the dough on a floured surface to about 1cm thick and, using your cutter, make about 10 biscuits. Place on the baking tray, brush the tops with a little beaten egg yolk and you can either sprinkle the tops with a little more paprika or grated cheese.
Bake on the middle shelf for 25 minutes. Biscuits should be firm to the touch when ready. Lift off baking tray gently and leave on a wire rack to cool. Gorgeously crumbly and cheesy!
* Ok, ok, use ordinary paprika if you have to.
